Rajasthan is more than camels, castles, and caravans. Behind the chromatic culture and edifices of luxury and grandeur, lies the decaying heritage that once used to raise the bar of the region. A thing of the past, yet fascinating for the artsy soul, the Havelis (mansions) of Shekhawati’s villages are a reminder of a pompous era.

The region of Shekhawati is easily accessible from Delhi, Bikaner, and Jaipur via NH 48, NH 11, and state highways. For air route, you can fly down till Jaipur and book a Jaipur car rental till you reach the villages via NH 53.

Mansions of magnificence

Tucked in the North Eastern corner of the state, lies the region of Shekhawati, an eponym from the Shekhawat Rajputs who reigned here. The cluster of villages stretches across 100 KM of the area and is dominated by dilapidating mansions, or ‘Haveli’ as they say. Most of these mansions were built around the turn of the 19^th century or probably, even later. The structures themselves are architectural wonders with intricate detailing on the facades, doors and window frames.

Lest you wonder what’s in the old ruins of houses, each and every Haveli is adorned with stunning frescoes. Fortunately, some of the mansions were restored and preserved at the right time, while some are seeing their last days. Yet, there they are, displaying the most vivid play of colors you would have ever seen. No wonder the Havelis of Shekhawati collectively earned the sobriquet of being the ‘World’s largest open-air gallery’!

Artistically Shekhawati

Whether you are an art student, collector or a connoisseur of all things artistic, the artworks on the Havelis of Shekhawati will leave you awestruck. The walls, facades, lintels and every possible frame of the mansions boast elaborate and intricate fresco paintings.

The paintings of the earlier era were largely influenced by the Mughal art forms while the later ones show prominent Rajput inspirations. But Krishna remains a cornerstone character of most paintings. Other mythological characters also find a place in the artistic renditions.

The motifs of every artwork speak of the life and lifestyle of its time. Like the frescoes of the British era feature European men and women, interwoven with vehicles, aircraft and similar. While the most modern day paintings depict popular culture with a touch of technology like telephones and flying cars.

As you take a walk among the timeless structures of skillful artistry, you will invariably feel like living in an art gallery.

A few places to stop by

Most of these mansions were established by the Marwari traders of the earlier times. As a symbol of opulence, these merchants would appoint artists to do lavish frescoes on their homes. If you’re planning to explore all that Shekhawati has to offer, book a taxi service in Delhi.

Some of such homes have stood the test of time at sites like Dundlod, Mandawa, and Nawalgarh.

Fort Mandawa

This is not your regular fort, which you would expect to see in other parts of Rajasthan. Rather, this is a small enclosure which cocoons a small palace within. One part of the palace is restored and transformed into a luxury hotel. And the other parts are left untouched and still holds onto the rawness of depletion which adds to the charm of this place.

Seth Arjun Das Goenka Haveli in Dundlod

One of the better-maintained properties in the village, the Haveli of Seth Arjun Das Goenka opens into a huge central courtyard. The rooms are decked with antiques and period décor.

Dr. Ramnath Potdar Haveli at Nawalgarh

Built in 1902, this mansion has been restored to promote tourism in the Shekhawati region. A Heritage Museum in integrated within the premise, which showcases heritage, tradition, and culture of Rajasthan.

Lakshminarayan Ladia Haveli

Yet another mansion in Mandawa, the Lakshminarayan Ladia Haveli is the most magnificent one. The frescoes depict stories from the Hindu mythology. If you are inclined to both art and history, then be prepared to spend a few hours here.